Super Fast Sewing Tips

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Sewing Knit Fabrics

They're easy to sew and comfy to wear, so why not make your next outfit out of a knit-weave fabric? Read on to increase your knit know-how. 

Use Ballpoint Sewing Machine Needles instead of regular machine needles. The ballpoint ones work best for stretchy knit fabrics. These needles have a rounded point instead of a super sharp point. The needle point penetrates between the fabric fibers instead of thru them, helping to prevent holes.

Use "pattern weights" instead of straight pins to hold your pattern pieces in place. They also prevent holes from sharp pins that can damage some delicate knit jersey fabrics. We use river rocks, that are less than $5 a bag, as pattern weights. You can also use large washers, silverware, and other items to hold your pattern pieces in place.

One of our favorite tips for knits is to cut strips of Tear Easy, a tear-away stabilizer. It's available in sewing centers. Place over the seam allowance as you are stitching your seams to help prevent the knit fabric from poking down into the sewing machine throat plate. This works especially well with tight knit jersey fabrics.

Heavy or Light? (Thread has a weight issue.)

The lower the thread weight number, the heavier the thread. I know that seems backwards, but it's something to get used to. Let's take a look at some threads, their weights, and what they can be used for.

30 weight shows up better for decorative topstitching. Anytime you want a heavier feeling and more visible look, go with 30 weight thread.

Standard construction thread is usually a bit finer for making your seams less bulky than you may find with some heavier threads. You can also buy fine construction sewing thread, perfect for lingerie or heirloom sewing with laces and really light, sheer fabrics.

Heavy denim topstitching thread--great for jeans and jackets--looks and feels like thread used in name brand jeans.

Tear Easy is a great lightweight stabilizer than can be used for a lot of sewing tricks.

Stitch your knit seams with either a serger or with a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine. Both of these seams will "give" with your stetchy knit fabric, instead of a straight stitch that would result in popped seams. You can also use a multi-step zig-zag for even greater stretch-ability!

Sulky Rayon 30 weight thread is about 1/3 stronger and thicker than their 40 weight thread. Most of the computerized embroidery designs today are set for 40 weight thread, so there is a large range of rayon machine embroidery thread in 40 weight.

30 weight cotton is a favorite of quilters because of its strength and the sheen of its natural fiber.

Construction and lightweight threads are perfect for seams, lingerie, and heirloom items.

Heavy, strong buttonhole twist thread creates lasting button shanks and buttonholes. You can also use it for topstitching.

 

Sewing threads come in lots of different types. Some are manufactured to be used for constructing your garment, and some are for decorative work. All of the threads here are designed to be used on a sewing machine, but you can sew by hand with them, too! A few pointers to get you started:  Construction Thread or Standard Sewing Thread: Usually a poly/cotton blend, it's the best choice for stitching your seams on garments, and can be used for most home-decor sewing and some quilting.  Invisible Thread: Newer types of invisible thread don't melt like the older nylon invisible thread. Look for polyester varieties, which are softer on your skin. This thread works great for invisible hems, and stitching cording and other decorative trims in place. You'll never see the stitches!  Metallic Thread: There are a couple of types of metallic thread. Thread of a twisted variety and one that looks like a "sliver" of metallic, a ribbon-like polyester film. These are great for a hint of bling on a project. Make sure you read the directions, and choose the correct needle for your machine to prevent breaking the thread.  Machine Embroidery Thread: Two common types: polyester and rayon. Rayon usually has a broader range of colors, but it's not as durable as its polyester "cousin". Choose this thread based on your project. If you're doing decorative stitching on something that won't be getting a lot of wear, you can use rayon. If it is something that will be washed often (like kids' clothes or towels) choose the polyester version.  Quilting Thread: Two kinds: hand-quilting and machine-quilting. Hand quilting thread is usually a bit heavier. It comes in all kinds of colors, as well as variegated and multi-color. These threads are also good for some decorative work when you don't want the high shine of rayon or polyester machine embroidery threads. Variegated thread has shades of one color going from light to dark. Multi-color means that it has more than one color which changes as you stitch, which can be a nice effect when quilting.