Sewing Tips & Tricks

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Garment Construction Tips

Use Graph Paper to Lengthen a Pattern Piece

When you need to split a pattern in order to lengthen it, fill the gap with graph paper -- the 1/4-inch grid provides a perfect guide for correctly spacing and aligning the pieces (or for extending the bottom edge). Graph paper tablets come in several sizes and can be purchased at office supply stores. While there, pick up a roll of removable Magic Tape (in the bright royal blue box). It can be peeled off tissue paper, but don't get an iron near it.

Balancing Uneven Stripes

To achieve a symmetrical appearance in a garment when you're working with uneven stripes, cut pairs of pieces (two fronts and two backs) with their hemlines in opposite orientation on the fabric; align key stripes in the same position on each, as shown in the drawing.

Buttonholes in Tweedy Fabrics

The multicolored tweed fabrics so popular today often pose a challenge when it's time to make buttonholes. While there are often a variety of colors in the fabric that can be matched, selecting just one can create a buttonhole that calls attention to itself when you'd rather have the buttons or other details be the focal point.

Improve Fit with a Bust Dart

Many T-shirt patterns intended for knits are drafted without a bust dart. However, even small-busted figures can benefit from the addition of a fitting dart, and it's easy to add one to a basic T-shirt pattern.

To determine the size and placement of the dart, pin the front and back pattern tissues together at the shoulder and side seams, and try them on. Mark your bust point on the pattern, and fold out any extra fullness at the armhole to form a provisional dart. Experiment with the size, placement, and direction of the dart (which should end 1 to 3 inches before the bust point). Avoid over-fitting the tissue. Pin the dart into position, remove the pattern, and unpin the seams.

Mark the tip, legs, and fold of the dart on the pattern, and unpin the dart. Beginning at the dart fold line at the armscye, draw a line perpendicular to the center front across the pattern. Measure the dart across its widest point, at the armscye.

Slash the pattern on the horizontal line and separate the two sections by the measured dart width. Add tissue to fill the gap. Redraw the dart with its armscye seam allowance. When stitched, the dart won't change the size or shape of the armscye, but it will allow for better bust shaping.

 There Is a Right Way to Baste by Hand

Use hand basting to prepare your garment for machine sewing when pinning is awkward or not precise enough. If you need to secure the thread at the beginning or end, use a backstitch, not a knot. Clip the backstitch before you pull out the basting -- you’re more likely to forget a knot is there and pull it through your fabric, causing damage. Here are four hand-basting stitches that come in handy.

Even basting
This long running stitch is quick, easy, and strong. To sew it, take even 1/4-inch stitches

 Uneven basting
Use uneven basting to transfer pattern marks onto your fabric when a pencil or marker is inappropriate. To sew it, take alternating long and short running stitches, placing the longer stitches on the right side of the fabric.

 Foolproof Buttonhole Sizing

To find the perfect buttonhole size to fit a button, wrap a piece of narrow twill tape around the button (including the shank if there is one) and mark the length. Half that length is the buttonhole size.

 

 

CHOOSING AND USING NOTIONS TIP
Choose the Right Notions when Sewing White Fabric

White fabrics can call for some specialized notions. For invisible seams on fine sheers, I use monofilament thread; otherwise I choose a good-quality polyester thread. Note that not all white threads are equal, and neither are all white fabrics; try to match thread to fabric just as you would for any other color. When I hand-sew whites, I avoid using beeswax or other thread conditioners; if you wish to use these products be sure to test them to see if they discolor the thread or fabric.

White hooks and eyes and clear plastic snaps are readily available and are unobtrusive closures. If you're using a zipper, consider placing it in a side seam, where it will be less noticeable.

As with any fabric, select interfacing with care. In some cases, the adhesive dots on fusibles may show through. I often use silk organza or cotton batiste to interface sheer, white fabrics.