Sewing Dictionary

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"     Backstitch A stitch sewn one stitch length backward on the front side and two stitch lengths forward on the reverse side to form a solid line of stitching on both sides   "     Bar tack very short thread reinforcement for stress points  "     Baste To sew with long loose stitches in order to hold something in place temporarily   "     Bias A line at a 45-degree angle to the selvage often utilized in the cutting of garments for smoother fit 

"     Boxing The long horizontal strip of fabric that connects the top and bottom of a seat cushion   "     Buckram A stiff open-weave fabric used mainly for interfacing   "     Clean finish To stitch 1/4" from the edge and press to the wrong side (if the raw edge won't be stitched down in another step, stitch down)   "     Ease To make one piece of fabric fit onto another by evenly pulling in the extra fabric with out making any gathers or tucks   "     Edge-stitch A row of stitching that appears on the very edge of a garment, normally 1/8" or less

"     Facing A piece of fabric used to reinforce another, usually at a seam   "     Fashion fabric The outer fabric in a garment   "     Finger press To open seam allowances with the thumbnail   "     Flat felled seam A durable type of seam generally found on jeans   "     French seam A strong seam stitched on both sides of the fabric to enclose all raw edges   "     Fusible fabric A thin layer of material containing adhesive that is activated with a hot iron   "     Gather To pull (fabric) along a line of stitching so as to draw into puckers   "     Give Degree of elasticity   "     Grade To trim each seam allowance to a different width to reduce bulk   "     Grain The direction of threads in cloth   "     Hand The feel of or tactile reaction to something (as silk or leather)   "     Interfacing An extra layer of fabric that provides shape and support in the detail area of a garment   "     Interline To sew a lining between the ordinary lining and the outside fabric

"     Miter A diagonal fold made at the corner in an edge finish   "     Nap A hairy or downy surface of a fabric ("with nap" refers to any fabric surface that looks different when held up or down)   "     Pile A coat or surface of usually short close fine furry hairs   "     Rolled hem A hem created by folding the raw edge under 1/8 to1/4" twice and topstitching   "     Seam allowance The area of fabric between the stitching and the cut edge   "     Self-fabric The fabric from which a garment is made   "     Selvage The edge on either side of a woven or flat-knitted fabric, finished to prevent raveling   "     Stay-stitch Stitching done to stabilize fabric and help pieces fit together   "     Stitch in the ditch or crack stitch Pressing the seam allowances to one side and topstitching as close as possible to the seam   "     Tack (bar tack)   "     Topstitch To make a line of stitching on the outside of a garment close to a seam   "     Tuft The dimpling or bunching of fabric that occurs when a button is pulled tightly against padded fabric